SNAKES & LADDERS ENVIROMENTAL PEST SERVICE

This is a very broad area in the field of Pest management; here we will endeavour to give you an overview of the pests, procedures & Treatments and in the situations of which you may encounter them

About Termites

Termites have been in Australia for thousands of years with well over 300 different species in Australia however most are just humble grass and debris eaters and don’t pose any real threat, in Sydney there are 3 main species that do most of the damage to structures these are:-

Coptotermes Spp.

Schedorhinotermes Spp.

Nasutitermes Spp.

These Termites are subterranean that is they nest and live under the ground, some may build mounds on the ground, some will build mounds high up in a tree these are mostly more like relay stations and not a true nest and some may build a nest in the trunk of a tree and others may build a nest in a pile of wood long since buried, although all these Termites may vary in there colony structures, habits and preferences they all have one thing in common and that is cellulose.

Cellulose is a starchy sugary type of substance that trees produce and store, cellulose can be found in many things in and around the house, the wood used to build the house, paper products, some old records (phonograph) and it was and may still be used as a thickener in food we eat, to mention but a few so as you can see you are pretty much surrounded by what they like.

Sydney is a high risk area for Termites there is no doubt, studies on Termites suggest that Termite foraging during the summer months Termites will forage deeper in the ground or forage in more shaded areas studies also show that by building a house the ground the temperature below the house is quite a few degrees cooler and therefore creating a shaded area and a conducive condition for Termites.

Don’t feed the Termites, you may not be able to stop the Termites from paying you a visit any time soon but you can reduce the odds.

1. Do not store Timber under the house this also includes forming timber left under a bathrooms /concrete areas Timber should be stored off the ground and away from walls (this allows for a clear visual inspection all round) if you don’t want it get a skip.
2. Ensure that conditions under the house are dry, if it is quite moist to wet you may need to start with improving the ventilation, installing more and larger ventilators, it will take quite a while before you know how successful you have been it can take up to 12 months if after this time damp conditions still prevail the next step would be the drainage, this may be a little more difficult.
3. Repair plumbing leaks and any leaking taps in the garden; this will also reduce conducive conditions for Termites.
4. For those that have a house build on a slab you are not exempt in fact the risk may well be higher, the slab edge should be exposed the entire perimeter of the house, where there is no slab exposure the risk of Termites coming over the slab edge and entering the house undetected is very high.

What to look for, Termites are soft bodied animals the workers are also blind and sexless (they cannot reproduce) in order for them to come out of the ground and attack a house they need to be protected from not only the elements but also predators (Mostly Ants) they will build a mud lead /tunnel to where they want to go, they will do this over a slab edge or up a pier or foundation walls.

Termites by nature will have multiple feeding sites, the nest starts with the king and queen they will mate and look after the young until there are sufficient numbers to send them out to look for food, once the food starts to come in the queen concentrates on egg production and the colony starts to grow as it grows the demand for more and more food becomes critical and so does the demand for more feeding sites it’s not really known whether they are looking for different types of starches to supplement their diet or they use the others as back up, it would be hard to imagine they would think of it in those terms its most probably instinct rather than intellect.

Should you discover Termites on your property or in your house avoid disturbance, don’t try to spray them, or dig them out it will only make the situation worse, some species will tolerate a small amount of disturbance while others will not, this will only send them to ground making it harder to treat and possibly take longer to eliminate the colony.

Termites are wild animals (yes insects are animals) they belong to no one, if you have found Termites on your property talk to your neighbours beside you and behind you Termites a very much a community effort, there may be a nest on your property, your neighbours, or on council land (you will need to write to the council outlining where you have seen them and reminding them of the possible threat to your property) Councils usually have their own contractors.

The first Step in any Termite management program is the inspection before you do anything have a Termite Inspection, Inspections are critical in determining levels of Termite Activity, Damage, wood decay and conducive conditions, such as poor sub-floor ventilation and poor drainage it also aids in determining the best treatment for you if required.

The Australian Standards recommend that structures should be inspected at least annually, whether or not you already have a Termite management system in place, those without would be considered a much higher risk, A Termite inspection will aid to minimise the level of damage that could occur should Termites attack your house.

Termite Treatments Post Construction

There are a number of different types of treatments available on the market, we will endeavour to describe each one and how they work in brief

Dusting Treatments
   (Repellent & non Repellent) - Intrigue, Termidor Dust.

Chemical barrier Treatments
   (Repellent) - Biflex
   (Non Repellent) - Termidor

Monitoring & Baiting System
   (Non Repellent) - Sentricon, Nemesis, Exterra.

DUSTING TREATMENTS

This is where a dust (Carrier + Insecticide) are applied to Termite workings with active Termites this type of Treatment requires a lot of activity, best results would be achieved in warmer periods of the year when Termites are at their most active usually used in conjunction with chemical barrier treatments, can work but: not recommended as a standalone treatment. Products in this range include Arsenic Trioxide, Intrigue, and Termidor Dust.

CHEMICAL TREATED ZONES

This is where a chemical is applied at a manufactures rate and in accord with the Australian standards around the entire internal and external perimeter of the structure, this may require drilling internal and external concrete slabs at intervals of 200-300 mm dependent on which product you opt for.

The chemical barrier is designed to either repel Termites that come into the treated zone or to allow them to enter the treated zone and over time pass the chemical onto others and ultimately killing the nest (the transfer effect) most companies will give you 8-10 years warranty providing they are allowed to install at the manufactures rate and in accord with the Australian standards and also providing you have annual inspections if you fail to have annual inspections your warranty would be void.

However you do not have to have the inspections done by the company that did the original job, this can be done by any licensed inspector of your choice, before you proceed with any work read the terms and discuss with your pest manager about any limitations (some limitations are not obvious until after work has already commenced) products in this range include Biflex, Termidor & Premise.

BAITING SYSTEMS

This is where stations are placed at intervals around a structure generally about 2.5-3 meters apart Termites foraging in the area will pick up on the monitors, the monitors are a selected timber made from eucalypts a sought after food source by subterranean Termites.

Once Termites hit on the monitors a bait is applied, the bait is comprised of a cellulose carrier + and an Insect growth inhibitor this effects the Termite by interfering with the moulting process Termites need to moult it’s all part of the growing process after a period of time the colony collapses the young Termites fail to mature and the ability to feed the colony is reduced to a level that it can no longer sustain itself.

Now we have covered the three treatment processes in the post construction area of Termite control we have tried to keep it in a nuts and bolts fashion for people that have no or limited knowledge of Pest control and specifically Termite control to understand.

Now which treatment process is good for you weighing up the pros and cons is always hard here are a few more facts that might make it easier.

Let’s put dusting aside for the moment as dusting offers no long term control in itself.

Chemical treated zones offer continued long term protection for the life of the chemical and providing you have perfect conditions to suit it would work very well unfortunately most do not, plumbing, pathways and concrete slabs can make it difficult to establish a continuous Zone and gaps may be present.

The selection of chemical product may well be of benefit repellent chemicals such as biflex work by obviously repelling and killing Termites that come into the treated zone, should they find a gap then they are in, a chemical such as Termidor is considered a non-repellent the Termites are still foraging but instead of looking for a gap unaware they enter the treated zone working and passing the chemical back to the nest eventually destroying the colony, repellent chemicals may highlight the gaps in the barrier whereas non repellent will not, however the gaps still exist.

Chemical barriers would not be considered very environmental in the true sense as they are designed to last at least 8-10 years most environmental products would degrade in a relatively short time and become inert, however these products have a low level of toxicity and once dry they remain stable in the soil unless disturbed if this should occur re-application to the area would be required chemical barriers are not very effective where there is a lot of rock of very wet conditions prevail, the chemical needs an organic substrate to attach to very little substrate equals very little protection.

Monitoring and Baiting systems placed around a structure offer a good level of protection provided they are managed correctly they are very unlike that of a Termite barrier system where the barrier needs to be continuous, monitoring and baiting relies on the foraging habits of Termites, how they find the monitors remains of some debate it is said that Termites forage randomly others suggest they can be attracted with a co.2 attractant, Termites have receptors on their bodies that allow them to pick up things like co.2 and allow them to hone into a food source more readily, whichever one it is they seem to find them.

The bait matrix is made up of mostly cellulose this is the food source that Termites seek out and extract from wood plus the insect growth inhibitor, the inhibitor reduces the ability to for the Termite to produce chitin (pronounced Kyton) this is something that we do not possess in our bodies so it would have little or no effect on us or our pets if we where to eat it, this form of treatment is probably the most safest form of any Pest treatment available as its impact on humans ,Animals and the environment would be almost zero.

There about 3000 different species of Ants in Australia, Ants are considered to be social Insects that is they have a Queen & workers the male that mates with the queen usually dies after mating and so does not play big part in the colony

Ants are mostly considered a nuisance pest when they enter homes scavenging on bench tops where people prepare and store food, and quite often around pet food bowls, Ants may also forage in rubbish bins and excrement from pets and are known to carry pathogens on and in there bodies such as salmonella & dysentery.

Ants will tend to nest in a variety of situations Roof voids, wall cavities, under pavers where they quite often throw out piles of dirt causing pathways to subside, Ants have also been found in electrical boxes, light fittings and switches and can sometimes cause them to short out, Ants also have the ability to move the entire nest from one place to another eggs and all, Ants can also be very active prior to rain.

Ant treatments      

There are a few different types of treatment processes:

Chemical Treatment: this is where a chemical is applied directly to areas where the Ants are active or as a repelling barrier and this is quite useful for reducing Ant populations to the immediate area, mostly the chemicals used are synthetic pyrethroids and pose only a low level of risk to humans and the environment.

However they will break down fairly quickly on the surface and may require re-application if the problem persists.

Baiting: this is where bait is sprinkled around where the Ants are foraging a number of different baits may need to be tried as Ants have different needs, the bait works in a reverse way as the Ants that are foraging take the bait back to the nest to feed the larvae the adult Ants prefer to eat liquids so the bait may have little effect on them   re-application would be required how much would depend upon the level of Ants and the size of the colonies.

Mostly Ant treatments are carried out as a combination of both chemical treatment and baiting and this usually works quite well in culling and reducing the level of Ants to an area.

These nocturnal blood sucking little animals can be the source of Great distress not only for the ones being bitten but also for the social Stigma attached to having Bed bugs, they are commonly associated with cheap hotels, backpackers and third world conditions but no  longer Is this the case

Bedbugs have made a comeback, as they do not fly unless of course if they are in someone’s luggage, there main mode of transport is hitchhiking in our bags and on our clothes, one way to at least reduce the risk of this happening would be too: when you or a family member return from a trip that may also include a weekend away isolate luggage place it in the laundry or better outside until you are ready to unpack, then place the clothes straight into a plastic bag and seal until you are ready to wash them, have a vacuum cleaner handy vacuum out the bag and place it into a large plastic bag seal & store this may sound a little extreme, but it may well save you a lot of stress latter on.

Bedbug Facts

• Bedbugs travel very well any radiation emitted from the airport x-ray is unlikely to have any effect on them,
• Bedbugs can live for very long periods without eating or drinking 6 months and more is not uncommon,
• Bedbugs are very fast movers and there eggs very small so they may not be seen easily.

 

If you are reading this now it may be because you have already discovered or at least suspect you may have Bedbugs...???

 

Absolutely Don’t attempt to remove bedding i.e. sheets, blankets, mattresses & bases by dragging or carrying them through the house This will only exacerbate the problem, live Bedbugs and eggs may fall off and contaminate other areas of the house and prolong the problem,

This will need to be done with almost surgical precision and is best left to a professional pest manager experienced in this field

The Inspection Process will start with a thorough inspection of the area this would also include adjoining areas; the inspection would include beds, bed side cupboards, bed heads, wardrobes, carpets this may also include lifting the carpet around the edge, curtains and curtain rails,

Bed bugs may not be limited solely to the bed rooms they may also be found wandering in hall ways, in the lounge under the cushions and folds in the material  

The Treatment Process this would include the direct treatment of bed and frame/base, headboard, under carpet, skirting boards, wardrobes, bedside tables, etc. utilising an integrated approach of chemical non chemical housekeeping & physical methods.

Follow up Treatments are essential due to the nature and bodily makeup of bedbugs; follow up treatments are usually carried out 2 weeks after the initial treatment and at 2 week intervals depending on the level of activity

All our treatments are carried out in accord with the code of practise

The European Honey Bee – Apis mellifera

The honey bee was introduced into Australia by the early settlers, there colonies can be very large between often greater than 30,000 individuals, and in the early spring it is quite common for bees to swarm this is quite often caused when the nest becomes overcrowded or there is limited food sources but it is instinctive eventually every healthy nest will swarm at some time.

The Swarm

The swarm starts to build a few weeks prior to leaving the hive and on a calm sunny day the queen a number of virgin queens and a mass of workers will take off guided by scouts they will set down at a number of locations before they decide to set up a new colony.

Swarms will sometimes pick the strangest of places to set down a branch of a tree is quite common as it is there natural nesting areas but they have been known to attach themselves to window ledges, fences, and even the handle on a supermarket trolley.

What to do and what not to do

If a swarm has come to your place

Avoid any kind of contact

Close all your windows, notify your neighbours to do the same, Put up a sign depending on the time of day they may only be there for a short time, bees are at their most active between 10-3 after that time they may have settled in for the night or possibly two.

Providing the bees are in an out of the way place, leave them alone

However if the bees are in an area where people are at risk you may need to act fairly quickly by either calling this company or your local council.

Carrying out treatments for bees is generally best carried out on dusk as most of the bees have settled for the day, when this type of treatment is done in the middle of the day there tends to be a lot of bees still flying around afterwards mainly due to bees that are away foraging will eventually return.

Nest Removal

Bees may set up a nest in the roof or in a wallcavity, where this is the case after the colony has been eliminated it would be and where possible that the nest is removed, after a period of time without the bees present the nest starts to break down and the honey starts to leach out through the walls or ceiling the odours associated with this may also be a problem.

European Wasp – Vespula germanica

This introduced species of wasp can tend to be quite aggressive not only do they drive away other species of bees and wasps they may also sting seemingly without provocation; although they tend to be more common in cooler climates they can be present in the Sydney area all year round, recognisable and quite distinctive in appearance with their yellow bands and black half diamond shaped markings.

Colony sizes can be up to 25,000 individuals nests tend to be a grey like colour and about the size of a large football made up of a very papery type of substance, unlike bees wasps do not swarm.

The European wasp favoured nesting sites are roof voids wall cavities, hollow trees, & old Rodent burrows, unlike the European bee removal of the nest after they have been eliminated is not necessary as the nest will just degrade naturally and being only of a paper substance does not pose any real problem from leakage or re use by a new colony.

Paper Wasp – Spp Polistinae

The paper wasp commonly found all over eastern Australia tends to nest under eaves an quite often on the same side of the house every year mainly due to the sun, heat & shade. Their nests are quite distinctive with a multiple cell like appearance.

There are a number of different species of paper wasp some native and others introduced but for all intensive purpose their behaviour and nesting characteristics are very similar.

Treatment of paper wasp is generally best done late afternoon or evening as most of them would have settled they can and will sting if provoked.

Mud Wasp Families – Vespidae & Sphecidar

This solitary wasp is found all over Australia it builds its nest in roofs under eaves and such like places it’s not really a pest in its self but its nest a mud like tube can be unsightly to some its actually considered a beneficial insect and rarely stings.

With over 4000 different varieties of Cockroaches world wide we will probably only ever encounter no more than 4-5 different species of those in our homes or offices at most, the others are mostly quite shy and prefer to live in forests & caves and aid in the decomposition of matter, so they do have some benefits despite what is said about them.

However for those other species that have found there way into our place, most of us are not quite so tolerant of there presence and perhaps rightly so, Cockroaches in them selves are not particularly dirty as they are constantly cleaning and grooming themselves, but it is where they live, eat, and traverse, is where the real problem starts,

Cockroaches have been shown to carry pathogenic diseases, such as staphylococcus & coliforms a broad class of bacteria which may create a health risk to humans

Each of the different cockroach species may have a very different lifestyle, an so the treatment process will vary from one to another,

Australian / American Cockroach Size: large 35-40mm
Colour: Reddish Brown
Fly’s: Can fly but runs very fast
Habitat: Roof voids, Sub-floor, Fence
Lines, Drains & Sewers etc
Mode of Entry: Flying and running

German cockroach Size:Small 12-15 mm
Colour: light brown 2 dark stipes on
Back
Fly s: Does not fly
Habitat: Commonly around kitchen
Areas, Under Sinks,
Hot water services, Stoves,
Electrical equipment.
Mode of Entry: Hitchhiker, via boxes from
Supermarkets, Suppliers,
Second hand electrical
Equipment, Radios, etc

When we start to see Cockroaches our first instinct is to get some surface spray or some baits from the supermarket and put these around where we are seeing them and then over the next few days expect to see every Cockroach that ever was or will be dead on the floor,

Unfortunately that is rarely the case Cockroaches have receptors on there bodies that allow them to navigate there way around residual sprays, baits alone can work but tend to be very slow and not every Cockroach will go to them especially when there is other food sources available,

At Snakes n Ladders we use an integrated approach of non chemical, Residual, Bait and traps in all Pest management treatments, combined with over 20 years experience
Should any problem arise within the 6 month free service period, we will come back and fix it at no extra cost to you.

Cockroaches, if allowed to go unchecked can destroy electrical equipment such as dishwashers, microwave ovens, stereo equipment, televisions and computers.

There are a number of different varieties of fleas out there Dog Cat, Rat, & Human, dog fleas can live on cats and Rat Fleas on Dogs it’s just that they prefer and have adapted to there own Host Animal,

Fleas are known to carry a number of diseases bubonic plague,Murine typhus to name but a few,
They are also linked to the transmission of intestinal Worms in dogs, and can occasionally be past on to humans.

If you are a pet owner you will know the importance of having your Pet on an anti flea program combined with extra good housekeeping Practices, this is not only in the interest of your pet’s health but also Yours

1. Your pets Flea program is failing
2. Your pets are/ ore have been in contact with more animals than usual lately
3. Your pets have been going to areas of high Flea activity
4. Due to environmental conditions Flea numbers have risen to higher than normal levels
5. Your housekeeping has been slipping a little of late

STEP1
By thoroughly vacuuming the entire house this includes moving furniture Fleas will quite often lay eggs in areas of less
Disturbance i.e. under furniture and along the edge of the carpet
This may have to be done every couple of days at first.
STEP 2
Thoroughly washing dog and bedding with appropriate anti Flea products.
STEP 3
Try a different walking trek (works for Dogs Cats a little more difficult
STEP 4
You may need to try an alternative product, what was working before may not work now due to resistance by Fleas to some pesticides used in systemic control products. (Dog & cat Collars
(Dermal Dosing)
Quite often Flea problems occur when there are no Pets around
You may have been on holiday, you have or just moved in to a new house /unit you have only been there a short time and suddenly Fleas are all over you, this is due to eggs laying dormant in the house/unit, your vibrations cause the eggs to emerge Flea eggs may lay dormant for some time until a host becomes available.

Always go to step 1 first, never under estimate the powers of a good vacuum cleaner.


For advice or to make a booking call us anytime on 1300 732 470

Australia plays host to whole range of flies blow flies, horse flies, fruit flies, Vinegar flies all of which play a big part in the transmission of bacteria and disease, known disease spread by flies are Dysentery and typhoid most fly problems may be associated with poor housekeeping and some in part with location.

For most if a fly comes I through the window you don’t think much of it but in a food manufacturing facility this can be a lot more serious, the way in which a fly feeds spitting, vomiting and defecating on food and surfaces where food is prepared severely affects the quality and the security of food.

Fly management may be as simple as installing fly screens or it may require a more integrated approach, this may entail the placement of light traps, in combination with regular cleaning and emptying of waste bins, washing & cleaning splash backs, the regular  cleaning of floor drains and grease traps, keeping lids on waste bins and including dumpsters.

HACCP is an internationally recognized program and the basis for quality food management programs, part of this program covers the management of pests, there is no set time period of which these things should done however in part the age and quality of the facility and the environment in which the facility is located may play a big part in the level of service required to maintain minimum pest thresholds.

Light Box Trap This type of trap utilizes the use of ultra violet light to attract flies into it.

The flies then become entrapped on a sticky board which is changed periodically

· Placement should be no more than 3 meters above the ground.

· Works on most type of house fly, Blow fly, & Moths.

· Not as effective on fruit & vinegar flies.

Fly Bait: Useful for use in non-production areas around rubbish bins and dumpsters.

Aerosol Fly Sprays: Can is used as a remedial treatment for all species of flies.

· Open food should be removed prior to use.

These animals well adapted to living around humans, capable of causing large amounts of damage to property by gnawing things such as electrical cables that can also cause fires, spoilage of food, and spreading disease either directly or indirectly by people eating contaminated food.

The two main contenders in this area are the Norway rat also known as Brown rat, Sewer rat, & water rat, and the Roof rat, also known under other names such as the black rat & Ship rat although they may have different preferences as to where they prefer to live and eat you will quite often get a cross over, Rats are very adaptable creatures.

There are a number of signs that will tell you that rats are about, burrows in garden areas, damage to plants and fruit trees, rub marks around pipes that rats have been using to enter an area of the building,  rat droppings, piles of snail shells in the garden and roof void, at high levels there will be an odour, live sightings, scratching noises in the roof and sometimes the walls.

Rats are very much creatures of habit, they are considered to be neophobic a fear of the future or change and will continue to follow a tried and true path combined with relatively poor eye sight they rely heavily on there strong sense of smell and touch.

Keeping rats out, this can be quite difficult as rodent control can be ongoing, removing debris from around the garden and under the house, store goods off the ground and away from walls keep the grass cut short, Rats don’t really like to be exposed. Keep lids secure on compose bins, rats may also try to burrow in underneath

keeping them out of the house, some measures that   may be undertaken could be: filling any holes in brickwork, ensuring all access to the sub-floor area are sealed, sealing around pipes and gutters to prevent access to roof, the list could be exhaustive and for older houses, semis, and terrace houses this may not be entirely possible

Other means of control may be:

Live trapping The Animal must be humanely destroyed don’t let them go
In the local park, you will only put the problem on some
One else’s door step, they may also compete for food with
Local indigenous animals.

Spring TrapsTime consuming, not for the squeamish

BaitingEffective but you must be very careful, other non target
Animals will attracted to the bait i.e. Possums, Dogs, Cats
And Birds, Read and follow label directions.
House Mouse

This small creature simular in a lot of ways to the rat but with a number of advantages he is much smaller so he can get in through smaller holes than a rat, can be found through out the house but is mostly found in the kitchen areas,. Under stoves kick boards at the base of kitchen cupboards, they also tend to be very picky when it comes to feeding they nibble here and there quite often causing wide spread damage to packaged food, like most Rodents they tend to be more obvious in the winter when it is quite cold outside

However there down side is they are not as cautious as rats when it comes to feeding and can be trapped and baited quite readily, there just might be a few more of them, As they reach maturity in about 6 weeks and can produce up too 10 litters in one year.

Spiders are Animals that are prevalent throughout Australia; the vast majority are harmless and pose no real threat to humans, there is well over 2000 species of spider in Australia but the 2 main ones of which are of concern and that you may encounter are the funnel web spider and the Red back spider.

The Red Back Spider-Latrodectus hasselti. Probably the more common of the two mainly due to its nesting habits where it can be found in garden sheds under outdoor furniture on trees etc. the female is the larger and may be more obvious with a distinctive red or orange marking on her back while the male much smaller may have more complex markings incorporating white and sometimes yellow.

Female red back spiders may live 2-3 years where as the male may only live for about six months, for most of the time the female may sit in her web only venturing out for a bite to eat whereas the male may be found wandering quite often in search of a female.

The Sydney funnel web Spider -Altrax robustas Black with fine red hairs prefers moist dark areas under rocks and deep in the ground, the female slightly larger than the male (female adult around 30mm Male 25mm) tends to stay in her web whereas the male may be more likely to be found wandering mainly late summer to autumn or times of heavy and prolonged rainfall, lifespan about 3-5 years.

Spiders quite often in still fear into many people regardless of their status or there potential to do harm most of us just don’t want them around, its generally not possible to totally spider proof your house but you may be able to at least minimise the level of spiders.

Preventative measures. Pest treatments will aid in the reduction of the population of spiders around the house however spiders walk on small hooks that raise them above the surface which reduces the residual effect of any pest treatment and therefore reducing long term control.

Other measures of control may also include: - insect screens, the reduction of habitat and improved housekeeping especially when there are small children around.

• Keeping garden areas free of debris (stored timber, metal sheeting etc.)
• Do not leave clothes on the ground overnight.
• Regularly inspect and clean the underside and backs of outdoor furniture and play equipment and remove any webbing.
• Inspect garden areas fence lines, sheds and around windows for webbing, (removal of webbing allows you to identify new activity should it occur.)
• Keep the grass cut short.